Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

RC K98

Gew88, Gew98, Kar98 etc.
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1911Ron
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RC K98

#1 Post by 1911Ron » Mon Mar 16, 2020 8:32 pm

Has anyone removed the shellac offer of the RC K98s and put BLO on it?

72 usmc
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Re: RC K98

#2 Post by 72 usmc » Tue Mar 17, 2020 12:14 am

Why,
http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/sh ... apture-k98
i have refinished rc 98ks and some do look nice but if i had the choice now i wish i had not done it. it will allways be an rc and what is wrong with that i love them got about 14 of them. there may be a time when un messed with rc 98ks might be worth more than the ones that have been messed with just another point of view.
source above link (2011)
An intact $200 RC (2011) is now pushing $600-700 if you can believe it! 2020

Do you really want to turn a RC into a Mitchel mauser? See the links on alternative solutions. It is your rifle and of course you do as you need, but most that drastically alter an RC, decrease it as a Russian collectable, but as a shooter lots or re enactors have done this and also removed the electro numbers to make it more "German". Is the concern just a flaking stock consider... see the links
less drastic, Tone down flaking shellac on RC Mauser and Mosin stocks
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=375

viewtopic.php?f=61&t=2931

BLO finish: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showth ... p?p=457285
I've restored a number of K98s and I offer this advice on removing the front band and other restoration tips. The spring/bar that runs from the front band to the end cap has to be depressed in its channel in order to remove the front cap. You'll notice that the spring has a little nipple that protrudes through the cap and holds it in place. What I do is place a small block of wood on the opposite side of the stock. Then take a medium C-clamp and gently squeeze the spring flush with the stock, so that the little nipple no longer holds the end cap. This will free up both of your hands for the next task. Take a brass tap and hammer and gently tap around the base of the front cap, working it off the end of the rifle. If you have a sight guard, it won't slip all the way off, that's OK. Next gently tap the front band until you can also slide it to the muzzle end. If you have a Yugo M-48, remove the screw just in front of the ladder site. As you lift the top handguard off, rotate it 90 degrees to allow it to slip over the ladder site.

To remove the trigger group, unscrew the two little screws first on its base. These are lock screws that keep the larger ones from backing out. With the slightest pressure you will now be able to lift the action from the stock.

:shhh: :snooty: (Added I consider this nuts, verging on crazy, no stinking oven cleaner... forget the paragraph)
If you need to clean off any cosmoline, I recommend immersing all wood parts into very hot water for a good half hour soak. When removed, spray all wood with EZ OFF oven cleaner (the "nice" stuff without the lye). Let this soak in for 15 minutes or so then scrub the wood with a medium/soft nylon brush. This will not harm the wood at all and will draw out all of the cosmoline. For real nasty stocks, you may have to repeat the process up to three times. While the stock is still wet, look it over for any dents. Most dents will "fix" themselves during the hot soak. Any that are left can be raised by placing a wet towel over the area and placing a hot iron over the dent. The injected steam will lift the dent - it's really amazing how this works. Don't steam too long, only a few seconds, or you may scorch the wood.

Let the wood dry out for at least four days. Then gently go over it with 0000 synthetic steel wool (no oil residue). Don't use sandpaper; it can remove cartouches which give the stock its character. Wipe the stock down with a tack cloth to remove any dust and then apply at least three coats of boiled linseed oil, mixed 2:1 with paint thinner. As you apply each coat, rub vigorously so that the wood feels warm. This will help in penetration. Wait at least 24 hours between each coat. After the last coat dries for 24 hours, apply a paste you can make from equal parts of bees wax, boiled linseed oil and turpentine (Melt the wax on the stove and then add the other components immediately to make a uniform paste). Rub this into the wood as you would a furniture polish. This will impart a beautiful, dull sheen just like it had when it came out of the arsenal! The wood is finished.

For the metal, use turpentine, acetone, coleman fuel or other hydrocarbon to flush all of the cosmoline from the bore, bolt and other parts. Let dry and lubricate liberally.

To reassemble the rifle, just reverse the process. After washing and treating the wood it does swell a little so you may have to give some of the parts a little more push than earlier. Put a little of the paste on the undersides of the metal to help lessen the friction. I always carefully chisel a little wood out of the front spring channel to allow easier assembly - not too much. Don't forget to use the C-clamp to help assist replacing the front cap. Don't be afraid to whack the bands a little to get them on, but be sure to use a brass punch.

Good luck with your project.

Noban
source is above link firingline...

Blo scrub, Candyman, another solution but drastic
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=3903
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=1231

Some do this: Way to crazy, and I am not thrilled with the look.
Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Meh4YA7mG0

Part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzxHmuC2Kl0

Here are some results re enactors like:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Refi ... 14-358545/?

https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread ... k-refinish

Also too crazy for me, but some like this.... Ya, like my dad said, this is a worthless K98 WW II bring back, it's 1949 and I need a cheep hunting rifle so I am going to turn it into a nice rifle... What's the value of A K98 sporter today? What is the value of an intact K98?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdEvA-Q94Dc
Last edited by 72 usmc on Tue Mar 17, 2020 1:12 pm, edited 3 times in total.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: RC K98

#3 Post by luigi » Tue Mar 17, 2020 8:33 am

I bought a nice k98 with a nice redish laminated stock many years ago. Since I had used BLO on most of my milsurps I lightly cleaned the stock and rubbed in my BLO.
Big mistake! It lost its nice red color and turned very dark brown. Live and Learn!

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Re: RC K98

#4 Post by 72 usmc » Tue Mar 17, 2020 10:19 am

RC Mausers originally came in many shades and types of shellac applications. The better ones had a light reddish brown with a thin shellac, almost like no shellac was present, others had a reddish brown with a thin shellac and looked great, then others had a dark reddish brown with a thicker coat that did not flake off, others had had a thicker coat of shellac that was spotty and/or was peeling/flacking off in spots, finally some came with a dark red brown, a very thick coat of shellac--like it was dipped in honey or coated numerous times. Way too thick & nasty. These are very dark, reddish, black -brown. I can understand the need or want to tone down the stock to remove some of the thickness or flaking. But the restoration must end at a point where it looks like an original Russian RC with a thin or almost light wipe of shellac of the first types. See this old link and some pictures of thin coat, RC mausers that I favored when I purchased RCs at $200. Most came from gun shows so I could see what I got. There are some close up views of the wood on page 1 & 2. The metal finish & amount of electro pencil markings are an entire different subject. RCs came in many variations.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1911

So 1911 ron give the above bag of ideas some thought. It is your rifle and you do as you think best. Some like intact collectors, some shooters, some hunting rifle RCs. Some want a cheep, WW II Mauser for re enacting & want a conversion to look as German as possible. It all depends on your goal and point of view. Got any pictures of your RC stock? As for value, who would of thought a $200 RC would be at $600 or a $59 Mosin 91/30 at $300-350. Many people do not even consider a refinished military stock. :think:
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: RC K98

#5 Post by luigi » Tue Mar 17, 2020 2:49 pm

Whatever happened to Candyman? Been a while since a saw a post?

72 usmc
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Re: RC K98

#6 Post by 72 usmc » Tue Mar 17, 2020 3:51 pm

His last post was around 15 Oct 1919, he has been busy with police work and fighting an illness. His old forum stickies were destroyed by the photo bucket pay to play. Hence, the free secondary photos were removed by photo bucket if you did not pay a high yearly fee. Secondary hosting agent''s photos are not permanent in the Wayback Machine archive. Only photos posted through the forum process/method are saved in the archives. A great loss.
This great loss of photos destroyed many older references posted on line.
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: RC K98

#7 Post by luigi » Tue Mar 17, 2020 5:17 pm

72 usmc wrote:
Tue Mar 17, 2020 3:51 pm
His last post was around 15 Oct 1919, he has been busy with police work and fighting an illness. His old forum stickies were destroyed by the photo bucket pay to play. Hence, the free secondary photos were removed by photo bucket if you did not pay a high yearly fee. Secondary hosting agent''s photos are not permanent in the Wayback Machine archive. Only photos posted through the forum process/method are saved in the archives. A great loss.
This great loss of photos destroyed many older references posted on line.
Thanks for the update!

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Re: RC K98

#8 Post by OldRog » Tue Mar 17, 2020 5:47 pm

I miss Candyman too, Lots of knowledge is lost without him.

72 usmc
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Re: RC K98

#9 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Mar 18, 2020 1:35 pm

Yep, Candyman and Cabinetman on Gunboards were true Old World Craftsmen. Both of all their old wood working & refinishing references seem to be gone .
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: RC K98

#10 Post by 1911Ron » Fri Mar 20, 2020 3:42 pm

I was just curious, I plan on leaving it alone.

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Re: RC K98

#11 Post by Calfed » Sat Mar 28, 2020 11:36 am

Camdyman repaired an Argentine 1909 stock for me that was damaged during shipping...couldn't tell where the break was.

He is an excellent craftsman.

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My response from FF in case you missed it:

#12 Post by MasterChief » Sun Mar 29, 2020 2:41 pm

Image
Removed the shellac on mine back in 1996 when I bought it from Big 5. Do not sand your stock. Mine had already been sanded in some previous life. Stained with golden oak and finished with BLO/tung oil mix. Good luck

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