Well, the board is either fixed, or it's going to run terribly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I'm at my technical limit right now.

So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

M1903, M1903A3 and M1917.
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Charles Lipscomb
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So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

#1 Post by Charles Lipscomb » Wed Oct 16, 2019 10:02 pm

So you found a nice Model 1917, Remington, Eddystone or Winchester but bubba got to it first her are things to consider when buying a sporter.
First off if the "ears" rear sight protectors are gone it's not worth it as far as a restoration project though it can still be a nice sporter.
How is the barrel? Is it still 26" long? Yes, ok what's the bore like. Vg or better ? If its toast or cutdown criterion has new barrels. But bear in mind that they run 200 bucks and few shops seem to want to do the swap so it will cost to go that route.
But if you have the skill and tools handy it's not a deal breaker.
As to a cutdown, if it's on the original caliber and 22" you can do it up as one of the rifles that were cutdown for use by troops in the CBI ( China Burma India) theater of operations. They bobbed the barrel to 22" as well as the stock. Again if you are good with tools this is doable.
This list is more for basically a barreled action in nice condition with the full length barrel and the ears on the reciever.
Here is a parts list intended for those who just want a nice looking shooter. By that I mean new wood and possibly a new band or screw.
All of these parts are obtainable from Numrich gun parts corp.
I will use my purchase last year as an example. It should be complete.

1. Stock and upper and lower.handguards. (3 parts)
Numrich has new italian walnut stocks with your choice of new or original handguards. Be sure and order them with the metal.
The stacking swivel I got seemed to be newly made as did the screw.
2. Upper band, screw, stacking swivel and screw . (4 parts) this band also seemed to be newly made, but fit the stock and with it my original 1917 bayonet.
3. Lower band, sling swivel and screw. You can buy it as 3 parts or as one item. Its actually a bit cheaper as a single item.
4 . Stock reinforcing bolt and nut. (2 parts) if your rifle has a stock you can damage it for the new one.
5. Lower band pin. Ok, no one has this in stock. And without it your lower band will slide around and your handguards will fall off.
No problem, the hole is 5/64 and you can use a piece of brass rod cut to length.
6. Handguard ring.
7. Rear sling swivel and two screws.
8. Buttplate with two screws. One long, one short.
Again if your stock has these you can move them over to your new stock.

A few tips on the Numrich stocks. They clearly state that some holes will need to be drilled. This is no biggie with the right bits.
You will need to deepen the following holes, buttplate screws, rear sling swivel holes.
You may need to deepen the holes for the stock reinforcing bolt and nut.
But be clear deepen Not widen. My kid brother was running the drill for me and mistook my instructions. No harm done.
Also need to drill a hole for the sharp end of the screw that holds in the ejector housing. They didn't drill it at all. But it's not difficult to locate it and mark it with a sharpie.

Other tips, you will need to remove the front sight to put the handguard ring. Middle and upper bands on.
Yeah I know the middle band can be spread open but I like to avoid bending milled steel. Also make sure the lower band screw is on the left side and that the swivel loops longer side extends out the right side. Same for the rear swivel. The British did this so as not to interfere with their volley sights. True the model 1917 doesn't have them, but it looks better to have things lined up right.
Triple check the bands before you put the front sight back on.
Note you may have trouble removing the front sight. Mine was set fast, and yes I removed the pin holding it on. I had sprayed it down good with WD 40 and let it sit a day or two. But even with derlin blocks and a hammer it didn't move.
I then sprayed it with BP blaster a couple times over a few days before I tried again when it came off with a few hits and a pull.

Did I miss anything?
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JAG2955
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Re: So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

#2 Post by JAG2955 » Sun Oct 20, 2019 12:59 pm

Got a pic of the cutdown version? I didn’t know that was done.

If you search for “M1917 Tanker,” you can find a neat idea made by a guy on ARFCOM. Completely imaginary, but it looks good.

My unBubba will be completes once my handguards get here, and the front sight spline that Bubba removes for absolutely no reason.

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Re: So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

#3 Post by Charles Lipscomb » Sun Oct 20, 2019 2:39 pm

Good information and lots of pics here.
I have in mind doing one myself if I ever run into a chopped sporter with a nice bore.
Recently there was one of these modified rifles on gunbroker. It was import marked by that's not a deal breaker for me. The thousand plus dollar price was.. :)

https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread ... ia-Theater
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Re: So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

#4 Post by JAG2955 » Sun Oct 20, 2019 6:05 pm

Actually, I found that soon after posting. A really neat mod, and one that I’m surprised didn’t find widespread acceptance.

If I see a bubba’d and cut M1917, I wouldn’t mind doing one of these, assuming I could find a willing machinist for a good price.

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Re: So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

#5 Post by Charles Lipscomb » Sun Oct 20, 2019 8:54 pm

It really wouldn't be that difficult if you find one that has been cutdown. Its the wood work that would get tricky. But again not too difficult.
Only hard part would be mounting the front sight. As that would require turning the barrel down a few thousandths. Q
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Re: So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

#6 Post by 72 usmc » Wed Oct 23, 2019 9:28 pm

This list is more for basically a barreled action in nice condition with the full length barrel and the ears on the reciever.

As a word of caution, some sporters had the original barrel cut off by only a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inches with the original sight redone. Difficult to tell just by observation of a rifle sitting on a table at a gun show. So measure the barrel before you buy a sporter M1917. Look at the sight and be sure its not machined and reset unless you want to do a re barrel job so it fits into the stock correctly. Parts have gotten so high it is just better to buy an intact rifle. Gunsmiths do not switch barrels for free! Original stocks are becoming difficult to find and command top buck. Those 1917 barrels are dogs to get off. :roll: :snooty:
To old to fight and to old to run, a Jar head will just shoot and be done with you.

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Re: So you want to un-bubba a Model 1917. A parts list.

#7 Post by Charles Lipscomb » Thu Oct 24, 2019 1:14 pm

I did the rescue restore as there was no way I could drop 700 bucks on an original rifle.
Plus I had fun searching for the right candidate and making parts lists.
I made lots of lists. :)
And I went new wood over spending big $$$ on original.
An easy tell if the barrel has been bobbed is if the gap between the front sight and the barrel markings has been decreased. Plenty of pics online will help anyone learn the differences.
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