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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 5:59 pm 
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Mil-Surp Owner
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Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:46 pm
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Age: 57
I'm sure this has been covered here before. But I thought I would ask anyway. Got a Yugo off an old guy at a gunshow for 60 bucks about a week ago. He said he had bought it for 80 or so about 10 years ago and just wanted his money back cause "it wouldn't cycle in semI." He just manually loaded and extracted it. He had his initials carved in the buttstock too. So I beeeetched about that and got him to go cheaper. The initialswere an easy fix. I just assumed it was a gas valve problem cause the spring in the valve lock was missing. Figured that would be an easy fix too. The rest of the gun was o.k. in the bluing, bayo was missing, and just a few dings.

This gun is the best one I have come across. I had a couple of real fugly ones with the dark bores, but they worked just fine. I cut a piece off a .22 rifle recoil srping and used it in the gas valve lock pin. Looked o.k., but the gun still didn't work. It appears that the piston has a small gap, like a 16th inch or so. I compared the piston to the ones in a couple of Norinco SKSs that I have and it appears to be in tolerance. It slips in between the gas block and the spring loaded smaller piston extension just the same as the original Norinco part. However, all the pistons have a gap at the gas valve end when I try them in the Yugo SKS

I am assuming that the gap is causing a leak at that point due to the gap. The gas valve appeared to be o.k. when I replaced the spring. Is this a common problem? Will replacing the valve solve the problem with the gap?
Is there any way to "rig" it to work till I get a valve?

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m3/P ... =004-4.jpg

The stock after the repair. The letter were 2" high and about as wide. Took some effort to get them out without making a dip in the wood. Finish is a few coats of Tru-Oil with a mix of MinWas Walnut Oilstain to give it color. It was still tacky here, but looks much the sme as the rest of teh stock now.

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m3/P ... =013-1.jpg


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 7:45 am 
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It seems that most every problem goes back to the valve on the Yugo m59/66. You can do a quick fix by wrapping a wire ( heavy gauge paper clip will work), around the gas valve to make a tighter seal. If the gun cycles then you will knw where the problem is. You can buy a new replacement if you don't want to go the paperclip route.
you may want to search here, or read about the yugo's on the yugo rfle page.

While many have problems with their yugo m59/66's, I've been lucky. 2 worked fine, both 90 dollars Aim specials. My friend wasn't as lucky. His had a sticky chamber. But he got rid of itt before i had the chance to sort it out...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 11:00 am 
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Yugo SKS's are notorious for crappy gas valves. There are several websites out there that sell new ones. Just google around and you'll find them. I seem to recall finding a replacement from AIM but they don't list them on their website anymore.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:37 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 1:16 am 
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Mil-Surp Owner
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Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:46 pm
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Age: 57
Charles Lipscomb wrote:
It seems that most every problem goes back to the valve on the Yugo m59/66. You can do a quick fix by wrapping a wire ( heavy gauge paper clip will work), around the gas valve to make a tighter seal. If the gun cycles then you will knw where the problem is. You can buy a new replacement if you don't want to go the paperclip route.
you may want to search here, or read about the yugo's on the yugo rfle page.

While many have problems with their yugo m59/66's, I've been lucky. 2 worked fine, both 90 dollars Aim specials. My friend wasn't as lucky. His had a sticky chamber. But he got rid of itt before i had the chance to sort it out...

The paper clip thing sounds good. I assume you mean to wrap it around the valve where the outer tube makes contact with the gas block? I had thought of using a rubber "O" ring for that, assuming that it held up. But I would still have a problem with the gap be valve and the piston.

Thought about fitting and epoxying a steel sleeve inside the gas piston that is just a bit longer, just enough where I could file it tomake proper contact with the end of the piston. That would take the slack out. Then drill through the sleeve using the hole in the valve as a guide. Mild steel would be kinda soft, but it should work for a while. I don't really shoot much anyway. I have had the 2 Chinese SKS since the 80s and have only fired them a couple of times.

Another thought was to put a steel shim behind the gas valve, just enough to close the gap. Then grind the rim of the valve back till the outer tube closes properly in place. That would move the valve out a bit and change the tolerances at the gas port in the valve and the lock pin hole. Thought I could cut a groove in the dremel tool in the port to move it back enough to let the gas through. Then either of these: Grind on the inside ofthe hole for the lock pin to allow the lock pin to engage. That would make the hole a bit of an oval shape, but the shim int he back should not allow any slack. Or fill the lock pin hole in the gas valve with epoxy, drill and tap it for a set screw.

Guess The second method would be better cause the hardened steel of the gas valve would still be making contact with the piston. Anyway,If either way works, I can use it for a while without having to get a valve. Thought that if I bought one, it may be the same length as the old one and still be out of tolerance on this particular gun. Might even be that the pistonis a bit out of tolerance, but it is pretty much the right fit when I tried it on both Chinese guns.

What do ya think? O.K., so I am cheap. But, I ain't got nothing better to do than that or fix the drain leaks under the sink, find the stopped up pipe in the wall behind the shower, cut some tree limbs, fix the riding mower, etc.

Anyway, I don't have much to loose. If it fails, I just get another vave. It shoud work. Right?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 1:24 am 
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Mil-Surp Psychosis
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:59 am
Posts: 5730
Location: College Station, TX
Age: 27
El_Perdido wrote:
Charles Lipscomb wrote:
It seems that most every problem goes back to the valve on the Yugo m59/66. You can do a quick fix by wrapping a wire ( heavy gauge paper clip will work), around the gas valve to make a tighter seal. If the gun cycles then you will knw where the problem is. You can buy a new replacement if you don't want to go the paperclip route.
you may want to search here, or read about the yugo's on the yugo rfle page.

While many have problems with their yugo m59/66's, I've been lucky. 2 worked fine, both 90 dollars Aim specials. My friend wasn't as lucky. His had a sticky chamber. But he got rid of itt before i had the chance to sort it out...

The paper clip thing sounds good. I assume you mean to wrap it around the valve where the outer tube makes contact with the gas block? I had thought of using a rubber "O" ring for that, assuming that it held up. But I would still have a problem with the gap be valve and the piston.

Thought about fitting and epoxying a steel sleeve inside the gas piston that is just a bit longer, just enough where I could file it tomake proper contact with the end of the piston. That would take the slack out. Then drill through the sleeve using the hole in the valve as a guide. Mild steel would be kinda soft, but it should work for a while. I don't really shoot much anyway. I have had the 2 Chinese SKS since the 80s and have only fired them a couple of times.

Another thought was to put a steel shim behind the gas valve, just enough to close the gap. Then grind the rim of the valve back till the outer tube closes properly in place. That would move the valve out a bit and change the tolerances at the gas port in the valve and the lock pin hole. Thought I could cut a groove in the dremel tool in the port to move it back enough to let the gas through. Then either of these: Grind on the inside ofthe hole for the lock pin to allow the lock pin to engage. That would make the hole a bit of an oval shape, but the shim int he back should not allow any slack. Or fill the lock pin hole in the gas valve with epoxy, drill and tap it for a set screw.

Guess The second method would be better cause the hardened steel of the gas valve would still be making contact with the piston. Anyway,If either way works, I can use it for a while without having to get a valve. Thought that if I bought one, it may be the same length as the old one and still be out of tolerance on this particular gun. Might even be that the pistonis a bit out of tolerance, but it is pretty much the right fit when I tried it on both Chinese guns.

What do ya think?
well if you if you asking i think you should pay the 10 bucks and get the new machined gas valve from the website link provided up above and see if that works instead of wasting alot of time trail and error unless you have alot of time on your hands and like little potentially frustrating projects

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:10 am 
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Mil-Surp Owner
Mil-Surp Owner

Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:46 pm
Posts: 14
Age: 57
alex124485 wrote:
El_Perdido wrote:
Charles Lipscomb wrote:
It seems that most every problem goes back to the valve on the Yugo m59/66. You can do a quick fix by wrapping a wire ( heavy gauge paper clip will work), around the gas valve to make a tighter seal. If the gun cycles then you will knw where the problem is. You can buy a new replacement if you don't want to go the paperclip route.
you may want to search here, or read about the yugo's on the yugo rfle page.

While many have problems with their yugo m59/66's, I've been lucky. 2 worked fine, both 90 dollars Aim specials. My friend wasn't as lucky. His had a sticky chamber. But he got rid of itt before i had the chance to sort it out...

The paper clip thing sounds good. I assume you mean to wrap it around the valve where the outer tube makes contact with the gas block? I had thought of using a rubber "O" ring for that, assuming that it held up. But I would still have a problem with the gap be valve and the piston.

Thought about fitting and epoxying a steel sleeve inside the gas piston that is just a bit longer, just enough where I could file it tomake proper contact with the end of the piston. That would take the slack out. Then drill through the sleeve using the hole in the valve as a guide. Mild steel would be kinda soft, but it should work for a while. I don't really shoot much anyway. I have had the 2 Chinese SKS since the 80s and have only fired them a couple of times.

Another thought was to put a steel shim behind the gas valve, just enough to close the gap. Then grind the rim of the valve back till the outer tube closes properly in place. That would move the valve out a bit and change the tolerances at the gas port in the valve and the lock pin hole. Thought I could cut a groove in the dremel tool in the port to move it back enough to let the gas through. Then either of these: Grind on the inside ofthe hole for the lock pin to allow the lock pin to engage. That would make the hole a bit of an oval shape, but the shim int he back should not allow any slack. Or fill the lock pin hole in the gas valve with epoxy, drill and tap it for a set screw.

Guess The second method would be better cause the hardened steel of the gas valve would still be making contact with the piston. Anyway,If either way works, I can use it for a while without having to get a valve. Thought that if I bought one, it may be the same length as the old one and still be out of tolerance on this particular gun. Might even be that the pistonis a bit out of tolerance, but it is pretty much the right fit when I tried it on both Chinese guns.

What do ya think?
well if you if you asking i think you should pay the 10 bucks and get the new machined gas valve from the website link provided up above and see if that works instead of wasting alot of time trail and error unless you have alot of time on your hands and like little potentially frustrating projects

Well, check my other post again. I edited it cause some might think it is a futile and frustrating project. However, that is what I did before and after I retired. Now I got time between gun shows to fix the fixer uppers as cheap as I can. Just finished reassempling a Remmy Mod 11, 12 ga. semi-auto that had been assembled incorrectly, repaired a timing problem on a very old, but very nice, nickled H&R, top break .38, and a nice Remmy 870, 12 ga. tacticool riot gun with a top folder that had feeding problems. Got them a Week ago at a show and the owners had been frustrated with them long enough. Those are all working now and all I have in all three is about 2 bills. A couple of others i got had no problems. Those were boring, but cheap too.

Previous show only netted a beater SMLE .303 That I got for 50 bucks with a bolt retension problem. That one was olved quickly and turn for 3 times as much. The other 2 I got worked right, bummer. It's just a frustration I love. :D :D
Not milsurps, but fixer uppers. left out the ones that worked.
http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m3/P ... =002-6.jpg

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m3/P ... =001-3.jpg

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m3/P ... =006-3.jpg


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:37 am 
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Mil-Surp Psychosis
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:59 am
Posts: 5730
Location: College Station, TX
Age: 27
neat looking guns there. seems like your a pretty experienced tinkerer, good luck with your sks. i hope you can get her shooting reliably again

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:31 pm 
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Mil-Surp Owner
Mil-Surp Owner

Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:46 pm
Posts: 14
Age: 57
alex124485 wrote:
neat looking guns there. seems like your a pretty experienced tinkerer, good luck with your sks. i hope you can get her shooting reliably again


Yep, a tinkerer. Been doing the gunshows for 35+ years in South Texas, mostly San Antonio, Austin, Corpus Christi, and a few in the Valley. Notice that you are in Houston in the early 80s. I did a few over there, but it was years ago. I have really slowed down after I lost eyesight due to glaucoma and had to retire from my regular job. But I still go to the shows I can make.

Got a nephew and his wife in Houston.He has a few guns that passed through my hands over the years.


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