A continuing saga ...
First off, I have posted a few groups here showing the potential of the Rom-built, all matching s/n arm I picked up w/ 2 scopes, 4 mags and the accompanying pouch, for $750 a few weeks before the election. A week later the seller brought into the shop RCBS dies and (100) Privi cases and told the owner to 'give' to the new PSL owner.
Anyway, w/ Tula non-corrosive, she'll shoot pretty much 1 to no more than 1.5 MOA and better if/when I do my part. This post continues where I left off with finishing the Rhineland Arms stock set I got - of a Panther buttstock and SVD forend. These will be finished to a hand-rubbed no gloss semi-satin oil finish, ala a premium Wenig stock or custom Winchester model 70 from their custom shop. But I love wood working - many don't, and I've also checkered many a fine sporting arm. Part 1
= http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=128159Part 2 = DIY Trigger Job
For an experienced person, IMHO there's no need to purchase a Red Star Arms (RSA) or other trigger part. A machinist by training, working engineer (former gunsmith too), I use diamond stones and 10x & 20x eyeloupes w/ angle gradients etched into the lenses to determine the proper engagement angle for the sear engagement surfaces. Then, if I need to modify them to ensure a 'positive' engagement, I'll re-harden the case hardened surfaces w/ Kasenit.
My PSL is now at a crisp 4# pull, 2.5 @ the 1st stage and as crisp like breaking glass at the 2nd stage. I observe many "chasing" only the final pull weight, but that's wrong. Rather, a consistent, reliable, and SAFE pull can contribute to phenomenal shooting. Case in point my Nat Match Garand 308, pull weight is 5#s (Garands really shouldn't be any lower), and the other day she printed 5-shot groups of 3/4" from the bench and a sub-2" group OFFHAND using aperture sights, @ 100-yards.
Onto more accurizing in future posts ...