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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 3:13 pm 
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thanks Bryan, I watched that one on Wednesday. Good vid. Gotta find me some of that.
Mind you, I did see a guy use sheet steel and cut about a strip 4" to 5" wide to coil at the base of the container to provide 360 deg. coverage of anode surface area....

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 11:31 am 
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Is this process safe for my Mosin bolt? Or am I better off hitting it with some steel wool?

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CM


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 2:25 pm 
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I gave it a try, using a 5v Motorola cell battery charger I had laying around. Used rebar as my sacrificial Anodes (4) and simply wired them together with spare copper wire, while clamped in place. I crimped some aligator clips on the pos and neg ends. I tried it out on an old original crescent wrench that was my father's. It worked well. The pics is only after 2 hours....of course I should have taken a before photo...


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 1:52 pm 
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I can't believe how well this works!

My only caution would be that when working with parts that still have bluing, try wiping them down with oil (I used Break Free) and a rag first. You might be surprised how much comes off that way, without removal of the bluing that can definitely happen if they're left in the tank too long...

I used this technique on a bunch of rusted parts and am very impressed, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Pat


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 8:30 am 
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...is electrolysis harmful to hardened spring steel?

After cleaning my little Mauser 1910, I noticed the extractor was broken in two. I thought nothing of that, presuming it was cracked to start with. I didn't pay much attention to it when it went it.

But I have just used this method on a muzzle cap for my Kar.98AZ

The spring on my muzzle cap was still ferociously strong...before I treated it...but as soon as I took the part out to check its progress (only after one hour) the spring had snapped in two....

coincidence, or did I f&%k up?!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 1:12 pm 
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.303 British wrote:
...is electrolysis harmful to hardened spring steel?

After cleaning my little Mauser 1910, I noticed the extractor was broken in two. I thought nothing of that, presuming it was cracked to start with. I didn't pay much attention to it when it went it.

But I have just used this method on a muzzle cap for my Kar.98AZ

The spring on my muzzle cap was still ferociously strong...before I treated it...but as soon as I took the part out to check its progress (only after one hour) the spring had snapped in two....

coincidence, or did I f&%k up?!



Sorry, I pressed "PM" instead of "Quote";

Disregard it from your PM

It is very possible that there was a lot of internal pitting and just the outside shell survived.
I tried to remove nickel plating from some Argentinian Mauser parts, at the end I only had the nickel plating shell and all the metal inside was all rusted.

Oscar

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:52 pm 
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It's been 4 years since I started this thread. I am still using my same method with the same charger. :lol:

Here is my Colt 1903 Type 1 restoration, it will be done later this evening so pics tomorrow. I love how the electrolysis removes everything in the way of rust or over glorified patina, and leaves a real patina behind in the form of a dark gray bluing or what is left of the bluing. That to me, is a true patina.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 9:04 pm 
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Well I have read all 11 pages of this post spanning 5 years and today I built my setup using a big-ol-honkin log cabin spike and a cut off from a shot out GEW88 barrel. I used a trickle charger set at 6V for the juice. Still looking for a better tank but a lid from one of Inga's Christmas totes worked good for now (She has LOTS of them :o :lol: ). Todays subject is a 1908 Colt .25ACP that I picked up last year. I left it in the tank for 3 hours and the results were amazing . All the bluing is gone and there is a lot of pitting but everything is there and I have a lot to work with. Looking forward to the next step :thumb: . I have pic's on my camera and will load them tomorrow if I can get a break.
Thanks Gunfreak25 for all your hard work and continued advice .

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 4:28 am 
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Well I did the challenge and it worked well. I used a Wall-mart plastic tub with some steel rods, copper wire and a old plug-in type drill charger. Here is a pictures of the tank and the after pictures. The Turk looks like a whole another rifle. I had to do some stock repairs but a little amount of walnut stain and true oil, it turned out nice. :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 6:35 pm 
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That is a stunning Turkish Forestry Carbine! Wow! Just simply wow!

Regards,
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:04 pm 
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Somebody put is a lot into that stock, that sure is shiney!


It is pretty hard to mess up on a E tank cleaning job using what most people have around for powersupplys.
I would not recommend this but I have used 12 vdc 75 amps from a battery charger and even 75v 110 amps off the welder.
They work great, make a lot of gas and work fast. But you can also ruin metal really fast.

I have found that 12vdc 2 amps worked best for me.
Cleaned up a total turd Gehendra in 20 minutes.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 1:27 pm 
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Yes the stock needed a lot of work... The Turks had done a great job of cutting out the wood around the bolt take down and hastily gluing it back together. I do not think you can tell by the pictures. The stock was cracked around the recoil lug also. So might as well fix the bubba and bring it back to specs with a little shine. :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 2:01 pm 
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It looks good!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:00 pm 
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This is working awesome with some o3a3 parts I had. Very little bluing loss. But. On the barreled action and handguard ring with swing swivel and the stacking swivel, along with the bayo lug, they're coming out frosted looking. Any reason why?


M1/M3 Carbine: late '44 Inland
M1 Garand: late '44 Springfield


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