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 Post subject: Home Brew Parkerizing
PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 12:32 pm 
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From Dan

Ok well I have sucsessfully parkerized my m1 rifle parts using a home brew method using easily accuired products that are cheap too.

The list is-

Jasco Prep & Primer ( available at Lowes)
Steel Wool
Distilled/Tapwater ( use distilled when ever possible)
Maganese Dioxide Powder as fine as can be (Pottery Stores sell this for under 2.00 a pound)
Candy Thermometer
SS Pot or Tank
Burner/propane Tank
SS Strainer / Gutter guard works


WARNING: ANY FORM OF ACID HURTS LIKE A S.O.B BECAREFUL!


Ok now to start , you MUST use a Stainless Steel Pot or Tank to parkerize parts it because the acid will not react with stainless! Then a type of burner yes the stove will work to, I prefer a turkey fryer and outdoors is best when acid vapors are present!

Here is my setup- http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/codman/000_0031.jpg

The ingredients needed-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/codman/000_0028.jpg

Now to start this recipe is for about a gallon and a half give or take!

Add the water to the pot when not turned on. Then Always Add Acid to water! Add 3 ounces or so of Jasco Prep/Primer. Then 2 ounces of Maganese Dioxide. Now fire it up and let the temperature get up to around 175-185 for best reaction for the parts. Now add a degreased biscuit of steel wool ( can be degreased by CarbCleaner). Now you should start to see it reacting to the solution alot of bubbles and such like this!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/codman/000_0033.jpg

Wait till it is about halfway dissolved and then start to immerse the parts slowly in the solution! For this I used a SS Strainer picked up at Wal-mart for $8.00

You should start to see the parts fizzing and i do a spot check everyonce and a while like every 2 minutes to see the color if I like it or not . My parts were done in about under 10 mins each and I used tap water so I dont know why they were done so quickly but they came out awesome as shown here in this picture!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/codman/000_0047.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/codman/000_0048.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/codman/000_0044.jpg

Also keep a container or warm or cold water near by if you want to wait for all the parts to be done before oiling but I didnt. I dunked them used a paper towel and let air dry then sprayed with Rem-Oil. If you do not oil right after they can flash rust and cause nastiness!


BEFORE PARKERIZING THE PARTS YOU MUST TAKE ANY RUST OR OLD FINISH OFF BY MEANS OF SANDBLASTING. I BLASTED ABOUT 3 WEEKS AGO AND HAD THE PARTS SPRAYED IN OIL SITTING IN A TUPERWARE CONTAINER IN THE SAFE! I JUST PARKERIZED THEM SUNDAY TOO!


I know im forgetting somethings but cant think of them i will add and re-edit as much as necessary! But please have fun as this is a cheap way to do parkerizing!


Last edited by Popeye on Thu Dec 28, 2006 12:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 2:23 pm 
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Popeye wrote:



Looks like the beginnings of a meth lab! LOL! :P Just kidding. Nice job, Popeye.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 5:25 pm 
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That looks great, I have a buttplate on my CMP Garand that needs to be done. It seems the finish on my M1 is almost black. Is there something to add to your recipe to make the color less green and more black?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 9:14 pm 
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i heard someone say you have to add pennies to the mix... is that true?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 3:45 am 
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Can you remove the original finish by Naval Jelly instead of sandblasting?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 3:37 pm 
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Sand/bead blasting works better than Naval Jelly.

What is most important is that ALL the original metal finish is removed.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 10:05 pm 
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Very nice. I think I will give it a try this weekend.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:08 am 
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Well done (sorry, turkey fryer joke). We use a pre dip to get the parts black and if not, they just turn gray no matter how strong you have the mix or leave them in. If left in to long, the parkerizing will fill in all the markings and stamps where you can't see them anymore. Please do not ask how I know this :roll: . I will look on our pre dip to see if it lists any chemicals in it that might be found locally.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:42 pm 
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I'm not so sure bead blasting is that important..

I'm finally getting my parkerizing set up finalized. Have the chemicals and tank etc. just waiting on a heat source for the big tank..

Anyway, today I did a bubba setup in the kitchen in a coffee mug on the stove, just to give it a try. (I tested it with just water first to make sure the glass wouldn't shatter and blow acid solution everywhere)

Mixed up some park solution in water and bead blasted a turkish mauser trigger. Then went and polished one side so it looked like a mirror.

Dropped it in the mug, watched it bubble up a bit, turn dark.. had an "Oooh, Ahhh" moment and a couple minutes later pulled it out. I don't see any difference in color or texture from one side to the other (blasted vs. polished).

I did notice, however, that my M1 Garand's front sight blade took a lot longer to park than the screw that tightens the FS blade onto the gas cylinder. I'm thinking it might have something to do with hardness of the steel. likely different types of steel, too.

I'm doing testing with different types of oils and grease to see if I can get a green tint going. Anyway, I'll probably do a post about it all when I get everything done (doing a lee enfield, M1 garand, and AR15).

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:46 pm 
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I've had pretty good results from just using a wire brush, or even Birchwood Casey Rust and Bluing Remover - or a combination of the two. The main thing that I have found was that degreasing is the most important. I use lacquer thinner with good results.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 1:31 am 
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All in total how much does this actual procedure cost for you?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 8:43 pm 
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Stainless steel tank: $100-150
Propane heating source: $50-75
chemical concentrate: $60-70 per gallon (I believe that's like over 30 gallons worth of solution.. I'll have to go check my math, I know Its enough to fill my tank atleast 10 times)

Then you have to worry about bead blasting. I did my own set-up for about $150 (mostly for the air compressor).

For small parts you can use Stainless steel cooking gear and do it on the oven (suggested you do this with windows open and a fan and mask etc..) and skip the stainless steel tank, but for barrels or barreled actions you need the big tank.

So about $350 total. Which I guess pays for itself after you do 4 or 5 guns, and especially when you do other people's guns for money :twisted:

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:44 am 
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Several years ago I was purchasing all my Parkerizing chemical from Brownell's. The pre-dip black was a solutionof Hydrochloric Acid! If you think Phosphoric acid is bad This is the mother of all acid's!!As for cost the Ospho (Phosphoric acid 75%) at Ace Hardware is $24 gal. and the Manganese dioxide at the pottery warehouse is $2.82 per lb.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 6:06 pm 
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...getting back to that penny question. I seem to recall reading about that somewhere else as well, to add a couple pennies that is. Does any of those who have tried this know anything about the penny thing?

Rusty


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:35 pm 
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Copied from the Brownells website: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTec ... mc_ID=2023
Brownells Gunsmith Kinks - March 2009
Protecting the Barrel's Bore From Etching Effects of Parkerizing
-- Travis Bader


Early in my career as a gunsmith for our local armoured car companies, I discovered an innovative way to protect a barrel's bore from the etching effects of Parkerizing. I tried wooden plugs, but they tended to saturate with solution and become difficult to remove. I tried rubber plugs but they were useless on small ports on gas operated semi autos. I threaded a mandrel and installed plugs on either side which worked well for most applications but not all. Finally the answer hit me. I took a piece of scrap metal, prepared it for Parkerizing, and painted my initials on it with lacquer. As I suspected, the piece Parkerized beautifully with the exception of my initials which were completely untouched by the solution. Now when Parkerizing a barrel, I simply rinse some lacquer down the bore (making sure none spills out onto area I want Parkerized) and let it dry. Now I can put a full length rod down the bore and support the barrel by the rod (thereby eliminating any part from touching the sides of the tank) and after the piece is Parkerized I simply swab lacquer thinner down the bore until it comes out clean. Sincerely, Travis Bader

Hope this might help someone. I've never been guilty of Parkerizing :tounge:

Mark :thumb:


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