I have a question for the sporterizing guys regarding an M44 and the scout project I going to do. How hard or easy is it to remove the bayonet lug? I have a buddy that has an M44 and I may obtain it through some horse trading thinking it could be the base of my project. I know the barrel steps down without it and that doesn't bother me. Could it be taken off so it can be re-installed?

edited....

Yes it can be look in the main section of this forum and you will find how to take it off

I finished it last Thursday and took it for a spin on Fri Morning. I was able to remove the bayonet lug and front sight. The pin by the bayonet lug came out easy but the one by the front sight base was a little stubborn. I took and old cold chisel I had and ground down the end to make a flat instead of a sharp point. Cinched the barreled action in a vise w/ wood to protect it and after a couple of hits with a hammer and cold chisel the unit came off. I was stoked!!! It looks okay; I don't mind the step down of the barrel and the areas where the pins were. I glass bedded the front receiver lug w/ a couple inches of the chamber, the rear tang, and the mount points of the magazine/floor-plate. Free-floated the barrel and made sure the hand-guard doesn't touch the barrel at all. I installed an S&K scout mount with a BSA 2-7x pistol scope. Not the best scope but I didn't want to spend a fortune for a scope if things didn't pan out the way I wanted. I have a Huber trigger coming to get rid of the atrocious 7-8lb pull. I have an M39 and the Finn trigger is much nicer. I may try a Finn trigger/sear combo to see how it feels. The original shellac was worn and chipped so I took it all down, hit it with some steel wool, put some Minwax 225 Red Mahogany stain and then brushed on two coats of amber shellac with sanding w/ 220grit paper between coats. Even with the issue stock, it is balanced, shoulders up nice and is very point-able.
At the range, I started w/ some Russian surplus 182gr yellow-tipped heavy ball. I don't like having to deal w/ corrosive primers so I pull the bullets and dump the powder in a primed Privi case and set the bullet in it. When I got it set at 100yds, It was throwing a 2-3" group with an occasional flyer. Then I tried some Privi Partisan 182gr Match and it shot a 1 1/2" group. Finally I shot some hand-loads I have for my M39 using sierra 174 MK's and shot a 3/4" group at 100yds. I was very pleased with the performance. Now that I have some fire-formed brass, I'll work up a hunting load using Sierra 180gr pro-hunters. It will make a nice woods rifle.
Later I may look into a Boyd's stock and upgrade the scope but right now just tweeking the trigger and working up a load for it......

Excellant work. Looks sharp and shoots great too. 3/4" is great with a scout scope setup. Will make a great hunting gun. Keep up the good work.

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Performance update:
I installed a Huber trigger with am M39 sear and it made quite a difference in the trigger performance. Took it for a spin today and was very pleased w/ my test loads. It definitely prefers heavy bullets. I tried IMR-4964, IMR-4350, and Varget. At 51.6 grains, the IMR-4350 results were the best w/ 45.0 grains of Varget a close second. Either would perform well in the woods but the it's nice to see what potential this rifle has. I might try 52.0 gr of IMR-4350 but data I've read says it's the maximum charge. Distance was 100yds....

how do you think it would shoot with the bayo back on? I only ask because a true "scout" rifle needs a marshmellow, hotdog, rat and fish fire stick cooker....

nice group

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better to pull out and nuke'em from orbit

I've heard that with it back on it will allow it to shoot around corners......

Thanks

Just my .02 but instead of spending 200 on a Boyd's stock I think the original would look cool duracoated

Good point and worth considering.....Thanks.

I think with shipping a Boyd's stock will be about 120.00- 125.00

Wow. Very nice shooting. Keep up the good work. It will make a great deer gun. And just be fun to blast targets with.

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I REALLY like the look of her with that stock... It's traditional, yet functional. I might have to try and do something with a cut down 91/30 stock.

I like the lines of the Mosin Nagant stocks, but the length of pull just kills me with full power loads... I might have to figure something out.

Nice shooting concretus!! You should be proud!!

Also, I've tested loads of up to 55 grains of IMR 4350 under a 180 grain bullet with no pressure signs in my 91/30 sporter. With a shorter barrel, I don't know if any more powder will do anything more than add to the fireball (IMR 4350 is fairly slow burning). It's something to think about though.

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"I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them." Thomas Jefferson

If length of pull is an issue you may want ot add a rubber recoil pad, I think Masen makes one that just replaces the buut plate so you don't have to cut the stock, but a grind to fit would look a heck of a lot better.When I get my Arisaka done I'll post pictures of it, it's most likely going scout with a cut down barrel

I like the original stock too! The Duracoat idea is a good one but I might get another stock to do that and leave this the finish on this one as is. I don't mind the length of pull I puu my AK and AR up close too. It feels I have more control of the rifle. The LER scope is nice that I don't have to worry about getting busted in the eye. and shooting w/ both eyes open.

Sorry if I missed this somewhere in the post. What kind of mount did you go with? I can see it mounts on you sight base

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unita stamus, divisa cadamus!